The (Natural) Next Step

Many of you know the story of how we evolved into a restaurant that serves almost exclusively all-natural, locally produced meat. It wasn't always so. When we first moved into this space the dynamics were such that our approach was willy-nilly. We had an epiphany the night we went out to see the movie Food, Inc, which was as much a message of hope as it was an exposé of the earth ravaging processes used by an industry gone awry. We left the theater and declared, "The price of chicken just went up!" (Click here to view the page that explains this in detail and Click here to view an in-depth article about the health benefits of grass-fed beef.)

For some time now we have been purchasing whole cows from a small lot farmer in Carlton by the name of Nick Conway. Nick hauled the animals a few miles to Dayton Meats, an organic processor in Dayton with an admirable set of "bottom lines" including humane treatment of animals, sustainable practices and supporting local farmers. When meat is to be sold commercially, the animal must be slaughtered in a USDA approved facility. Additionally, if the meat is being butchered and sold for resale, the butchering process must be performed under the direct supervision of a USDA inspector. Shops and restaurants that purchase whole sections of an animal are allowed to butcher the meat and sell it directly to the public. But if that shop wants the animal butchered into wholesale cuts, that work requires Federal supervision, which means the butcher has to make room for a Federal inspector to take up residence in his or her shop.

Unfortunately, we learned that Dayton Meats discontinued its butchering operations as of the first of the year. Nick can still take a steer to Dayton for slaughter, but they will only cut the carcass into sections. We were unable to find a suitable replacement solution for processing the meat. Frustrating as this was, we were guided by our knowledge that one cannot make lemonade without the benefit of lemons.

We are pleased to announce that we have entered into an arrangement to purchase our beef from Stephen Neal and his family at Oregon Natural Meats, a producer from Eugene that that naturally slow-finishes animals for up to six months at densities that are a small fraction of typical operations. The "fun fact" here is that Oregon Natural use "upcycled" brewer’s grain acquired from its partner, Ninkasi Brewing. This is absolutely the best meat we've tasted… and, for now, you won't find it any place else in Portland.